Glossary of terms

French Bearer

The french bearer is a special button behind the fly of plain fronted trousers. It helps hold the front of the trouser flat, so making them look smarter.

Worsted Wool

Worsted wool is wool that has been specially spun.  Traditionally it means that the wool has straight long fine fibres. The term "worsted" is often applied to any yarn spun from fibres three inches in length or longer that have been carded or combed, and spun, not just wool.   for many years the only people who could make wool fabric properly were the British, as many other suppliers struggled to make the fabric shrink resistant.  Now however, as others have developed their skills, more manufacturers can make a quality wool.  You still have to be careful what you buy however, it is not a universal skill.

Columbia Stitch Trim

The Columbia stitch trim is inside the jacket - where the lining is sewn the stitches are shown just to give a better finish and a bit of detail around the edge.

Half Canvas Construction

The half canvas construction is a superior quality of inner lining in the upper half of the suit jackets, it's not visible it is underneath the lining to give a firmer finish.


The Lapel is the folded collar at the front of a jacket or coat, and is mostly found on formal clothing like suits. The three main types are Notched - where the lapel is sewn to the collar at an angle creating a step. Peaked - Where the lapel goes out to a point when the lapel meets the collar. Shawl - A simple lapel with no joins or steps.

Pleated and Plain

Pleated suit trousers are where there is a tuck of material (pleat) at the top of each leg just underneath the waistband. Plain is when the trousers are without a pleat.

Shirt Collars

There are many different types of shirt collar. Standard - A normal shirt collar. Cutaway - When the shirt collar's points a shorted and angled out of the neck slightly. Wing Collar - Ideal for bow ties or cravats, this collar doesn't fold down and only has small points to just come over the top of the neckwear item. Mandarin - This shirt collar is just like a normal shirt collar but without the folded section and points.

Shirt Fronts

There are some shirts that have patterns or pleats in the material on the front of them. A Full front pleated shirt has many pleats going down the front of the shirt. A Pleated shirt may have just a couple of lines of pleats. (These pleats can vary in size depending on brand and shirt). Marcella Fabric refers to a fabric with a weaving style pattern and effect. A Bib front shirt is where there is a section of the shirt that is plain or pleated (in the shape of a bib - not visable with a jacket on). And there is also plain - which has no pleats or patterns.